HyreRemodel

Before you sign

Contracts, payments and change orders

Most remodeling disputes are not about workmanship. They are about what was agreed, by whom, and when, and they are decided by a document that was signed quickly because everyone wanted to start. This page sets out how remodeling contracts are structured, which clauses carry real consequences, and what to settle before rather than after.

Last updated .

This is not legal advice. Contract law, lien rights, deposit limits and cancellation rights are set by state law and they differ materially from one state to another. HyreRemodel is not a law firm and does not review contracts. Everything below describes how these mechanisms generally work and what to ask about; the authoritative answer for your situation comes from a lawyer licensed in your state, and on a large project that hour is inexpensive insurance.

Fixed price or cost-plus

Choosing between a fixed price and cost-plus is the first structural decision, and both answers are legitimate. The problem is almost never which one you chose. It is holding one while believing you have the other.

Fixed price (lump sum)Cost-plus
How it pricesOne number for a defined scope.Actual cost of labour and materials, plus a percentage or fixed fee.
Who carries estimating riskThe contractor, who prices that risk into the number.You.
What you getCertainty, at a premium.Transparency, and the upside if the job runs well.
Main weaknessIncentive to interpret scope narrowly, so exclusions matter enormously.Open-ended unless capped.
The protection to ask forA scope and specification detailed enough that "included" is not a matter of opinion.A guaranteed maximum price, plus the right to see invoices.
SuitsWell-defined work in a known building.Work where the extent genuinely cannot be known in advance: older houses, structural repair.

A guaranteed maximum price is the useful middle ground and is worth asking about by name: cost-plus billing with a ceiling, so you get the transparency without the open end. Whether a contractor will offer one depends on how knowable your project is.

What the contract has to contain

Some of these are required by statute in some states. All of them are worth having everywhere.

  • The parties, with the contractor’s legal business name, address, and licence or registration number where the jurisdiction issues one.
  • The scope, room by room, describing what is removed and what is installed.
  • The documents it is priced from. Drawings and specifications identified by version and date, so a later change is visibly a change.
  • The price, and the basis for it (fixed, cost-plus, or capped cost-plus).
  • Allowances as amounts, with what each is expected to buy, and how an over- or under-run is settled.
  • Exclusions, written out. The most useful paragraph in the document.
  • The schedule. Start date, substantial completion date, and what counts as an excusable delay.
  • The payment schedule, tied to milestones.
  • The change order procedure, including who may authorise one.
  • Insurance. General liability and workers' compensation, with certificates to be provided.
  • Permits. Who applies, who pays, and who schedules inspections.
  • Lien waivers. What will be provided, by whom, and when.
  • Warranty on workmanship, with a duration, stated separately from manufacturers' product warranties.
  • Dispute resolution. Mediation, arbitration or litigation, and who bears costs.
  • Termination. The circumstances, the notice required, and how work in place is valued.
  • Cleanup and site restoration, and what standard applies at completion.

Deposits and the payment schedule

The principle worth internalising is that you should never be significantly ahead of the value delivered. That is the position from which a homeowner has the least leverage and the most exposure, and every payment structure should be read against it.

Deposits. A deposit should be proportionate to what the contractor must commit before starting, typically ordering long-lead materials. Some states cap what a home improvement contractor may take before work begins; many do not. California, for instance, limits it to the lesser of a fixed dollar amount or a percentage of the price, which is frequently misquoted as a national rule and is not one. Find out what your state provides.

The pattern to walk away from. A large share of the contract price demanded up front, a preference for cash, a price that is only available today, an unsolicited approach, no written contract, no verifiable business address, and a reluctance to pull the permit. Any one of these can have an innocent explanation. Together they are the standard profile of home improvement fraud, which the Federal Trade Commission documents and which takes the same shape in every state.

Progress payments. Tie them to completed and, where permitted work is involved, inspected milestones: rough-in complete and passed, drywall complete, cabinets set, substantial completion. Payments tied to calendar dates fall due whether or not anything happened, which quietly moves the risk of delay onto you.

Retainage. A percentage held from each payment until the punch list is closed. It exists because the final few per cent of a project is the least profitable part of it and therefore the easiest to defer indefinitely. Ask for it, and make its release conditional on the punch list being agreed and completed and the permit closed, not on a date.

Change orders

A change order is a written amendment to scope, price and schedule, signed before the work happens. Every time. Including small changes. Including changes the contractor suggests. Including the ones agreed in a corridor while everyone is being agreeable.

The reason to be absolute about this is that the failure mode is predictable: work proceeds on a verbal understanding, two people remember it differently, and the disagreement surfaces on an invoice when neither party can prove anything. It is the most common source of remodeling disputes, and it is almost entirely preventable at a cost of a few minutes each time. A change order should state:

  • What is changing, described specifically.
  • What it adds to or subtracts from the price, and how that was calculated.
  • What it does to the completion date, including "no change", which is itself worth recording.
  • Signatures from both parties, dated, before the work begins.

Agree the pricing mechanism for changes in the contract itself, so that you are not negotiating a rate at the moment you have least leverage, which is when the wall is already open.

Liens and lien waivers

In many states, subcontractors and suppliers have a direct right to record a mechanics lien against your property if they are not paid, including when you have already paid your general contractor in full. That asymmetry is the part homeowners find hardest to believe and the part most worth protecting against.

The routine defence is to exchange lien waivers with every payment: a conditional waiver at the time of payment and an unconditional waiver once it clears, from the general contractor and from any subcontractor or supplier large enough to matter. Preliminary notices, prescribed forms and filing deadlines all vary by state, and some states provide additional mechanisms such as joint cheques. On a project of any size this is worth twenty minutes with a lawyer in your state at the start.

The clauses that matter when things go wrong

Contracts are usually read for what happens when everything works. These are the paragraphs that decide what happens when it does not:

ClauseWhat to check
WarrantyWhat is covered, for how long, and whether workmanship is separated from manufacturers' product warranties. A one-year workmanship warranty and a twenty-year product warranty are not the same promise.
Cure periodWhether you must give written notice and an opportunity to fix before taking other action, and how long that period is.
Dispute resolutionMediation, arbitration or courts. A binding arbitration clause substantially changes your options and your costs, and it is easy to sign without noticing.
Attorney’s feesWhether the losing party pays. This cuts both ways and changes the economics of any dispute.
TerminationWhat circumstances allow either party to end the contract, what notice is required, and how work already in place is valued and paid for.
DelayWhat counts as excusable, whether the completion date has any consequence attached, and what happens if materials are late.
Substantial completionHow it is defined, because it usually triggers a payment and starts warranty periods running.
Assignment and subcontractingWho is actually doing the work, and whether the company you chose may hand it to someone you did not.

Before you sign

  • Read the exclusions first, then the payment schedule, then the dispute clause. In that order.
  • Confirm the licence or registration number directly with the issuing board, not from the contract.
  • Get certificates of insurance from the insurer or broker, and check the dates cover your project.
  • Test every allowance in a real showroom.
  • Check whether your state gives you a right to cancel, and how long it lasts.
  • Ask who will actually be on site day to day, and who your single point of contact is.
  • On a large project, have a lawyer in your state read it. It is the cheapest line in the budget.

HyreRemodel is an independent remodeling resource and connection platform, not a remodeling contractor and not a law firm. We do not draft or review contracts and we do not give legal advice. Contract law, lien rights, deposit caps and rescission rights are state law and vary; verify anything on this page against your own state’s requirements and, where the amounts justify it, with a lawyer licensed there.

Questions

What is the difference between fixed-price and cost-plus?
A fixed-price (or lump-sum) contract sets one number for a defined scope, and the contractor carries the risk of having estimated wrong, which is priced into the number. You buy certainty and you pay a premium for it. Cost-plus bills the actual cost of labour and materials plus an agreed fee, either a percentage or a fixed amount. It is transparent, it can cost less when a job runs well, and it is open-ended unless it carries a guaranteed maximum price. Both are legitimate. What causes disputes is a homeowner believing they have a fixed price while holding a cost-plus agreement, or holding a fixed price and expecting to see receipts.
How large a deposit is normal?
That is partly a market question and partly a legal one, and the legal part varies by state. Some states cap what a home improvement contractor may take before work begins (California, for example, limits it to the lesser of a fixed dollar figure or a percentage of the contract price) while many states set no cap at all. The general principle that survives everywhere: a deposit should be proportionate to what the contractor has to commit before starting, such as ordering long-lead materials, and it should not be most of the contract price. A request for a very large share up front, particularly in cash, is the single most common feature of home improvement fraud. Check what your state provides — our review of deposit limits sets out what we were able to confirm.
What should a payment schedule be tied to?
Completed work, and where the work is permitted, inspected work, not dates on a calendar. A schedule tied to the calendar transfers the risk of delay from the contractor to you, because payment falls due whether or not progress was made. Milestone-based payment keeps the two aligned: rough-in complete and inspected, drywall complete, cabinets installed, substantial completion. It also keeps you from ever being significantly ahead of the value delivered, which is the position from which homeowners have the least leverage.
What is retainage and should my contract have it?
Retainage is a percentage of each payment held back until the project is complete and the punch list is closed. It is standard in commercial construction and increasingly common in residential work, and it exists to give the contractor a reason to finish the last five per cent, which is otherwise the least profitable and most easily deferred part of any project. It is worth asking for. What matters as much as the percentage is the trigger for releasing it: it should be tied to the punch list being agreed and completed and, where applicable, permits being closed, rather than to a date.
What is a change order and why does it matter so much?
A change order is a written amendment to the scope, the price and, where relevant, the schedule, signed before the work happens. It matters because verbal changes are the single most common source of remodeling disputes: two people remember a corridor conversation differently, the work is done, and the disagreement surfaces on the invoice when neither party can prove anything. The discipline costs a few minutes each time and it protects both sides. Apply it to every change without exception, including small ones and including changes the contractor proposes — the habit is what makes it work, and a policy with exceptions is not a policy.
What is a mechanics lien, and can a subcontractor lien my house if I have paid?
A mechanics lien is a security interest that people who supply labour or materials to improve a property can record against that property if they are not paid. The part that surprises homeowners is that in many states the right belongs to subcontractors and suppliers directly, which means that if you pay your general contractor and the general contractor does not pay them, your property can still be exposed. The protections (preliminary notices, lien waivers exchanged with each payment, and in some states joint cheques) vary considerably by state, and so do the deadlines. This is exactly the kind of question worth putting to a lawyer in your state before a large project rather than after a problem.
What is a lien waiver and when do I get one?
A lien waiver is a document in which a contractor, subcontractor or supplier gives up lien rights for work already paid for. The practical discipline is to exchange one with every payment: a conditional waiver at the time of payment, and an unconditional waiver once the payment has cleared, from the general contractor and from any subcontractor or supplier large enough to matter. The forms, and whether particular forms are prescribed by statute, differ by state. Doing this consistently is unglamorous and is one of the few things that reliably prevents a problem rather than merely documenting it.
Do I have a right to cancel after signing?
Often, and the specifics depend on where you are and how the contract was formed. Federal law provides a cooling-off right for certain sales made at your home rather than at the seller’s place of business, and many states provide their own rescission rights for home improvement contracts, sometimes longer and sometimes triggered by different circumstances. Because the rules differ and the periods are short, the practical advice is to ask before signing rather than after: a contractor operating properly will know the answer for their state and will have the required notice in the contract already. If a salesperson tells you the offer expires today, that pressure is itself informative.
Should the contractor or I pull the permit?
The contractor, in nearly every case. A permit pulled in the homeowner’s name makes the homeowner the responsible party in the eyes of the building department — for the work meeting code, for scheduling inspections, and for any consequences if it does not. Contractors occasionally ask the homeowner to pull it as a convenience; sometimes that is genuinely a local quirk, and sometimes it means the contractor cannot pull it, which is worth knowing. Ask why, and treat an evasive answer as an answer. See permits and approvals.
What insurance should a contractor carry?
General liability, which covers damage to your property and injury to third parties, and workers' compensation, which covers the contractor’s own employees if they are injured on your job. These are different things and neither substitutes for the other — the reason workers' compensation matters to you is that in its absence an injured worker may have a claim against the homeowner. Ask for a certificate of insurance sent to you directly by the insurer or broker rather than a copy from the contractor, verify the dates cover your project, and check whether the policy has exclusions relevant to your scope. Our review of insurance requirements explains why general liability, a licence bond and workers' compensation are three different instruments.
What happens if the work is defective or the contractor walks off?
The contract is what determines your position, which is the argument for having a real one. Look for the clauses that deal with failure rather than only with success: warranty terms on workmanship and their duration, a cure period requiring written notice and an opportunity to fix, how disputes are resolved — mediation, arbitration or the courts, and who pays costs. A binding arbitration clause in particular changes your options meaningfully and is worth understanding before signing rather than discovering later. Where a contractor is licensed, the state board may also have a complaint process, and where a licence bond exists it may provide a limited recovery route. If real money is involved, this is a lawyer question.
Does HyreRemodel review contracts or give legal advice?
No. We are an independent information resource and a platform intended to connect homeowners with remodeling contractors. We are not lawyers, we do not give legal advice, we do not review contracts, and nothing on this page is a substitute for advice from a lawyer licensed in your state. Contract law, lien rights, deposit limits and cancellation rights are all state law and they genuinely differ. What this page can do is tell you which questions matter and which clauses to read closely before you sign.

Related

Back to the homepage